Dining
When it comes time to refuel, there are plenty of excellent choices. Plaza de Armas is a cozy restaurant and wine bar that specializes in local variations on Italian cuisine and seafood, and hosts live Cuban music on weekends. The front area is a comfy lounge where wine is the name of the game, but we took a table in the back, where brick arches soar overhead. I savored a plate of large prawns exquisitely wrapped with bacon and sprinkled with chopped olives, and I also enjoyed the Garrapiñado, a chilled, sugary nougat with glazed caramel.
The small, contemporary restaurant called Mila serves a variety of spirits, as well as mouthwatering fruit beverages like frozen grape juice. I loved the carimañolas — fried cassava stuffed with feta cheese — and the desserts are equally as tempting.
You can also sample fresh seafood at Juan del Mar and As de Copas, a casually elegant eatery with a large wine list and several Italian-influenced dishes.
And for a truly Colombian experience, be sure to try a corn-based arepa or a giant hot dog, filled with mozzarella cheese, ketchup, onions, mayonnaise, potato sticks and a squirt of pineapple juice.
And don’t feel bad about eating so much — you’ll need plenty of energy to further explore all that Cartagena has to offer.
To see my additional coverage of Cartagena (including detailed hotel and restaurant reviews, coverage of Cartagena’s International Music Festival and even coverage of the torture devices at the Inquisition Museum), check out my earlier articles and videos here on LatinFlyerBlog.com. Don’t forget to share your own favorites and recommendations!
CONTACTS:
Casa Pestagua: http://casapestagua.com/
Charleston Santa Teresa: http://www.hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com/
Delirio: http://www.deliriohotel.com/
Hotel Cartagena de Indias: http://slh.com/colombia/cartagenadeindias/carcar.html
Sofitel Santa Clara: http://www.sofitel.com
Tcherassi Hotel + Spa: http://www.tcherassihotels.com
1. The Official Story (La Historia Oficial): This heartbreaking drama —winner of best foreign film in 1985 — is about a woman in Buenos Aires who slowly comes to realize that the child that she and her husband adopted was a victim of the government’s disappearances during the so-called Dirty War of the 1970s.
2. Nine Queens (Nueve Reinas): This sly 2000 caper weaves a tangled story of deceit and con games, with intriguing plot twists. If you liked The Spanish Prisoner, you’ll love this. It was nominated for 28 awards in Latin America, the United States and Europe, and won 21 of them. (Travelers take note: much of the action takes place at the Hilton Buenos Aires, in the Puerto Madero district.)
3. Plata Quemada (sometimes called Burnt Money): This 2000 crime drama tells the true story of two gay men who become lovers and participate in a bank robbery in 1965 Buenos Aires. Among its critical recognition was the Goya award for best Spanish language film in 2001.
4. Apartment Zero: Colin Firth (who stars in this year’s well-received A Single Man) plays the off-kilter owner of a revival movie house in Buenos Aires, in this 1989 psychological drama.
5. Evita: All right, all right. I know I’ll get some flack for mentioning the 1996 movie version of this rock opera, which was especially controversial in some circles because of its choice of Madonna to play Argentine first lady Eva Duarte de Perón. But it’s still an entertaining musical.
Two more, from Karla, a LatinFlyer.com reader from Argentina who now resides in Miami:
• El Hijo de la Novia: This 2001 comedy-drama stars Ricardo Darín and Norma Aleandro, and was directed by Juan José Campanella, who won the Oscar for El Secreto de tus Ojos.
• Cuestión de Principios: Ethics are put to the test in this 2009 comedy staring Pablo Echarri, Federico Luppi and Norma Aleandro.
Shop Talk
If you’re looking for something fresh to wear on your night out, not to fear. Condado is one of San Juan’s fashion hubs. A quick stroll along Ashford Avenue reveals shops bearing names like Cartier, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Salvatore Ferragamo, as well as local designer Lisa Cappalli, who operates a couture shop in Condado. Or check out Euforia, a new boutique that combines interesting products that stimulate the senses: gourmet Puerto Rican coffee, and high-quality skin-care products — some imported and some made with wholesome and fragrant ingredients right on the island. With a little help from Euforia, you’ll be able to have glistening skin for your night on the town, and then wake up to plenty of caffeine the following day.
(Please be sure to check out the VIDEO REPORT at the end of this post!)
RATES: $175 and up
Posada del Angel, 4a Avenida Sur #24A; tel. +502-7832-0260 or in the USA +305-677-2382; http://www.posadadelangel.com
Hotel Cartagena de Indias
Opened in late 2009 in an impressively repurposed former office building, the Hotel Cartagena de Indias is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and is owned by one of the co-owners of Avianca, the largest airline in Colombia. The hotel offers a good central location and sleek style, with large works of photography and other contemporary decorative elements. The rooftop pool deck offers excellent views. About $310 and up.
http://www.hotelcartagenadeindias.com or http://www.slh.com
Tcherassi Hotel + Spa
In 2009, Colombian fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi turned her stylish gaze from clothing to hospitality, and the result is gorgeous. Rough brick arches frame cool white walls at this seven-room hotel, which has a small swimming pool, a mostly open-air restaurant, and a spa, all set around a small courtyard. Upstairs, the rooms feature unique touches like gold dusted walls and comforters strewn with Tcherassi’s designer label. Custom-designed bathrobes, Egyptian cottons and amenities designed by the owner round out the offerings. About $300 and up.
http://www.tcherassihotels.com
Casa Pestagua
Of all the newer properties I toured, this 11-room hotel feels the most like an authentic mansion; kind of like staying at the home of your extremely wealthy old friend. The large guest rooms are laden with antiques and have old-fashioned (but indulgent) marble bathrooms, and public areas include a decent-size swimming pool, spa, restaurant and a wine cellar that doubles as a private dining room. About $290 and up, including a 10-minute welcome massage and breakfast.
http://www.casapestagua.com
Delirio
The first time I walked past this eye-catching place, I thought it was a high-end retail store, thanks to the giant chandelier dangling over a bright orange throw rug in the minimalist lobby area. The best value in the trendy category, Delirio opened in 2008 with plenty of amenities, a comparably reasonable price point, and design-conscious rooms in clean white, expertly accented with large photographic murals and orange throw rugs. Rooms have free Wifi, minibars and rainforest showers. The rooftop terrace is a pleasant place to relax, and the hotel has its own fleet of eco-cycles — ecologically friendly, Segway-style vehicles for exploring the city. About $142.50 and up.
http://www.deliriohotel.com
Anandá
This beautiful den of perfectionist luxury exudes a contemporary style that enhances rather than threatens the traditional architecture, with dramatic lighting, dark wood furniture and flooring. A member of the Preferred Boutique consortium, Anandá opened in 2009 and sports a large rooftop terrace with Bali day beds and a large Jacuzzi, and on the ground floor there is a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Accommodations include free Wifi and breakfast.
http://www.preferredboutique.com
Hotel L’Petit
One of the best new choices for cheaper accommodations with decent amenities, Hotel L’Petit was opened in late 2009 by the man who owns Studio 54, one of the city’s most popular gay bars, as well as Bar L’Petit, the new bar on the hotel’s first floor. Primarily targeted at gay travelers, it is nevertheless straight-friendly (“we just had a straight couple from Venezuela stay with us for a week, and they had a wonderful time,” says the receptionist). Rooms have basic décor but are clean, newly furnished and have flat-screen plasma TVs, free wireless Internet access and private baths. Plus, you’ll get a complimentary welcome cocktail at the bar downstairs. About $110 and up.
No Website yet; tel. +57-5-6643643.
Searchlights scan the dark skies above as festively dressed men on stilts amble around the parking lot, greeting well-dressed guests who are exiting chauffeured cars. Inside, champagne bubbles and tables overflow with tasty cuisine.
It’s all part of the grand opening of the Holiday Inn Santo Domingo [www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/hi/1/en/hotel/sdqex], which debuted in late 2009 as the newest hotel in the capital of the Dominican Republic. As you may have already seen, the recently revamped Holiday Inn formula — reworked at the corporate level and gradually being implemented in individual properties — is a far cry from the old roadside inns that used to attract cross-country drivers. This property is contemporary, dramatically lit, and well-located for business travelers, in the middle of the city’s important financial and commercial district — a stretch of Abraham Lincoln Avenue lined with tony restaurants and major advertising agencies.
The Style: Sleek and modern
The Best Parts: The rooftop pool is small but offers great views and a lounge-like environment. The location is convenient for business travelers, upscale dining and shopping (including the soon-to-open Ikea, the very first in Latin America). And anyone who likes minimalist contemporary design will appreciate the décor at this hotel.
The Other Stuff: If you’re making a quick leisure trip to Santo Domingo and want to be super close to the historic Zona Colonial or the waterfront Malecón, this isn’t the property for you — although everything is a quick taxi ride away (depending on traffic, of course).
The Price: About $127 and up
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